This Brand *Won* Watches & Wonders 2024

Chrono24
14 Apr 202413:42

TLDRThe script discusses the highlights and lowlights of the 2024 Watches & Wonders event, with a focus on record-breaking complications, ultra-thin designs, and innovative features. It awards the 'Best Surprise' to Cartier for the Santos de Cartier 'Rewind', 'Best Value Watch' to Tudor's Black Bay 58 GMT, and criticizes the 'Biggest Disappointment' - the solid gold Rolex Deepsea. The 'Strongest Brand Overall' goes to Cartier, and the 'Best in Show' is awarded to the Rolex 1908 for its potential to represent a new direction for the brand.

Takeaways

  • 🏆 The Cartier Santos De-Orso Rewind was a surprising highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024, with its unique counterclockwise dial and hands.
  • 🎉 Record-breaking complications and ultra-thin watches were showcased, including Vacheron Constantin's Berkeley Grand Complication with 63 complications and Bulgari's 1.7 mm thin Octo Finissimo.
  • 🌈 Nomos released 31 new colorways for the Tangente 38, featuring creative and fun names like 'Ramb Zamba' and 'Lemon Biscuit'.
  • 💰 The best value watch award went to Tudor for their Black Bay 58 GMT, combining style and functionality at an attractive price point.
  • 😞 The biggest disappointment was the over-the-top luxury direction taken by some brands, particularly Rolex's solid yellow gold Deepsea, which was criticized for its impracticality and weight.
  • 🥇 Cartier was named the strongest brand overall, thanks to their diverse offerings catering to different tastes and interests, from fun, colorful pieces to technical marvels.
  • 🏅 The 'Best in Show' award went to the Rolex 1908 for its potential to pave the way for a new future direction for the brand, combining classic design with a modern twist.
  • 🎯 The event showcased a mix of practicality and technical achievements, with some watches focusing on breaking records with complications and others on design and value.
  • 👀 Notable mentions include the Jaeger-LeCoultre DU Metro Heure Technograph Perpetual with its unique top and perpetual calendar combination, and the TAG Heuer Carrera with its panda dial and heritage-inspired design.
  • 📌 The script highlighted the importance of brands evolving and making incremental improvements while still maintaining their core identity and values.
  • 🔄 The discussion emphasized the cyclical nature of trends in the watch industry, with brands often returning to their roots while also pushing the boundaries of innovation and design.

Q & A

  • What was the most complicated watch presented at Watches & Wonders 2024?

    -The most complicated watch presented at Watches & Wonders 2024 was the Vacheron Constantin Grand Complication with a total of 63 complications.

  • Which watch was noted for its record-breaking moon phase accuracy?

    -The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar features a record-breaking moon phase that will remain accurate for the next 45 million years.

  • What new record did the Bulgari Octo Finissimo claim at the event?

    -The Bulgari Octo Finissimo claimed the title of the thinnest watch in the world at 1.7 mm, surpassing the previous record held by the Richard Mille.

  • How many new colorways did Nomos release for the Tangente 38?

    -Nomos released 31 new colorways for the Tangente 38.

  • Which brand won the award for the best surprise at Watches & Wonders 2024?

    -Cartier won the award for the best surprise with their Santos de Cartier 'Rewind'.

  • What was the biggest disappointment in terms of design according to the script?

    -The biggest disappointment in terms of design was the Patek Philippe double denim strap on their new versions of the 5980/1R Nautilus Chronograph.

  • Which watch was criticized for being more flash than substance with lots of precious metals and gemstones?

    -The Rolex Deepsea in solid yellow gold was criticized for being more flash than substance.

  • Which brand was named the strongest overall at Watches & Wonders 2024?

    -Cartier was named the strongest brand overall at Watches & Wonders 2024.

  • What was the Best in Show award given for at Watches & Wonders 2024?

    -The Best in Show award was given to the Cartier 1908 for being the most spot-on watch coming out of Geneva.

  • What new feature did Tudor introduce with the Black Bay 58 GMT?

    -Tudor introduced a globe-trotter complication and a burgundy and black bezel to the Black Bay 58 GMT.

  • What does the 'Rice Grain Guilloché' pattern on the Rolex 1908 reference?

    -The 'Rice Grain Guilloché' pattern on the Rolex 1908 is an official name given by Rolex, resembling a barley corn pattern.

Outlines

00:00

🏆 Watch Highlights and Awards at Watches and Wonders 2024

The paragraph discusses the highlights and lowlights of the Watches and Wonders 2024 event. It mentions the breaking of records and the variety of watches showcased, from the most complicated watch by Vacheron Constantin to the thinnest watch by Bulgari. The author expresses surprise at the unique features introduced by certain brands and the overall diversity in the watch designs. The paragraph also covers the awards given for the best surprise, the biggest disappointment, and the best value watch, with specific examples for each category.

05:01

🤔 Missed Expectations and the Strongest Brand at Watches and Wonders 2024

This paragraph delves into the watches that did not meet expectations, such as the double denim-strap watch from Patek Philippe and the heavy solid gold Deepsea from Rolex. It also discusses the strongest brand overall at the event, which was a tough category to judge. The paragraph highlights the impressive releases from brands like Grand Seiko and JLC, but ultimately awards the title to Cartier for their diverse and appealing offerings, including the innovative Santos de Cartier and the revamped Tortue.

10:02

🌟 Best in Show and Final Thoughts on Watches and Wonders 2024

The final paragraph of the script focuses on the 'Best in Show' award, which recognizes the most spot-on watch from the event. The paragraph lists several nominees, including the new Tutu Black Bay GMT, the JLC Duometro Perpetual Calendar, and the Cartier Tortue. It concludes with the announcement of the winner, the Rolex 1908, for its potential to represent a new future direction for the brand. The author reflects on the overall event, noting the mix of exhaustion and excitement, and invites viewers to share their opinions.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Watches & Wonders 2024

Watches & Wonders 2024 refers to the annual watch exhibition where luxury watch manufacturers showcase their latest innovations and collections. This event is significant in the horology world as it sets trends and reveals groundbreaking timepieces. In the context of the video, it serves as the backdrop for discussing the highlights and lowlights of the new watches introduced by various brands.

💡Records broken

The term 'records broken' in the video refers to the new records set by watch manufacturers in terms of technical achievements, design innovations, and even the complexity of the watches. For example, the script mentions the most complicated watch and the thinnest watch in the world, which are records that have been surpassed at the event. This highlights the theme of pushing boundaries and achieving new milestones in watchmaking.

💡Von's Berkeley Grand Complication

Von's Berkeley Grand Complication is a highly complex watch mentioned in the video, featuring a total of 63 complications. A 'complication' in watchmaking refers to any feature other than the time and date, making a 'Grand Complication' one of the most intricate and advanced types of watches. This watch exemplifies the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship and the constant pursuit of excellence in the industry.

💡IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar is a specific model from International Watch Company (IWC) that is highlighted in the video for its record-breaking moon phase accuracy. The 'Eternal Calendar' is a type of complication that includes a perpetual calendar, which means it accounts for months with different numbers of days, including leap years, and does not need manual adjustment. The moon phase mentioned in the video is particularly noteworthy for its accuracy, which will remain correct for the next 45 million years, showcasing IWC's engineering prowess.

💡Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, as mentioned in the script, is recognized as the world's thinnest watch at only 2 mm thick. This achievement is a testament to Piaget's expertise in creating ultra-thin timepieces. The watch's design and engineering are focused on minimalism and elegance, pushing the limits of what is possible in terms of thinness while maintaining functionality and luxury appeal.

💡Nomos Tangente 38

Nomos Tangente 38 is a watch model from Nomos Glashütte, a German watchmaking company known for its minimalist and Bauhaus-inspired designs. In the context of the video, Nomos has released 31 new colorways for this model, which is notable for its classic and clean aesthetic. The variety of color combinations, such as 'Ramba Zamba', 'Lemon Biscuit', and 'Super Sardine', adds a playful and contemporary twist to the traditional watch design, appealing to a broad range of consumers looking for unique and stylish timepieces.

💡Cartier Santos de Cartier Reverse

The Cartier Santos de Cartier Reverse is a watch model that stands out for its unique feature of having a dial that runs counterclockwise, along with its hands. This innovative design element sets it apart from traditional watches and adds an element of surprise and novelty. The watch's inverted movement, while not mechanically as complex as some other watches mentioned in the video, is a clear example of how Cartier has chosen to innovate by rethinking the way time is displayed, contributing to its recognition as a 'best surprise' at the event.

💡Raymond Weil Freelancer

Raymond Weil Freelancer is a watch model from Raymond Weil, a Swiss watch brand that is not as widely discussed as some others but has made a significant impression with its quality and value. The Freelancer SE Moon Phase watch, as mentioned in the video, is noted for its attractive design and affordability, with a price point just over $2,000 USD. Despite its relatively low cost, it boasts a sophisticated appearance that belies its price, making it a strong contender for the 'best value' category.

💡TAG Heuer Carrera

The TAG Heuer Carrera is a line of watches from TAG Heuer, a Swiss luxury watchmaker with a strong heritage in sports and racing timepieces. In the video, the new TAG Heuer Carrera is discussed, which continues the brand's legacy with a 'panda' dial design inspired by the TAG Heuer Heritage. This model features red accents on the hands and minute track, adding a sporty and stylish touch. The watch's continued success and the positive reception of its latest iteration underscore TAG Heuer's commitment to maintaining a strong presence in the watch industry.

💡Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is a watch model from Tudor, a sister company to Rolex known for its tool watches that combine robustness with style. The new Black Bay 58 GMT mentioned in the video features a 39mm case size, a globe-trotter complication, and a color bezel, making it a versatile and appealing option for watch enthusiasts. Its introduction reflects Tudor's strategy of making incremental improvements to its core collections, following the playbook of its bigger sibling, Rolex, and catering to the desires of its fanbase.

💡Biggest disappointment

The term 'biggest disappointment' in the context of the video refers to the watches that did not meet the expectations of the reviewer or the watch community. An example given is the double denim strap on a Patek Philippe watch, which was seen as a misguided design choice. This category highlights the watches that, despite the anticipation and reputation of the brands, failed to impress or were seen as steps backward in terms of design and innovation.

💡Strongest brand overall

The 'strongest brand overall' is an award given to the watch brand that demonstrated the most impressive and consistent performance at the Watches & Wonders event. This takes into account various factors such as the quality of new releases, innovation, design, and the overall impact on the watch industry. In the video, Cartier is named the strongest brand, recognizing its ability to offer a diverse range of watches that cater to different tastes and preferences, from practical to fun and nerd-appealing designs.

💡Best in Show

The 'Best in Show' award is given to the single watch that stands out the most during the Watches & Wonders event, often for its combination of design, innovation, and overall appeal. It is the most coveted award, as it represents the pinnacle of watchmaking excellence as recognized by the reviewer. In the video, the Patek Philippe 1908 is named the 'Best in Show' for 2024, not only for its current attributes but also for the potential it represents for the future direction of the brand, bringing excitement and new possibilities to Patek Philippe's lineup.

Highlights

Watches & Wonders 2024 showcased a mix of record-breaking achievements and some levels of boredom.

The most complicated watch was presented by Vacheron Constantin with the Berkeley Grand Complication, featuring 63 complications.

IWC released their Portuguese Perpetual Calendar with an incredibly accurate moon phase that will remain correct for the next 45 million years.

The world's thinnest watch title was claimed again by Bulgari with the new Octo Finissimo at merely 1.7 mm thick.

Nomos released 31 new colorways for the Tangente 38, including unique names like 'Ramb Zamba', 'Lemon Biscuit', and 'Super Sardine'.

The Cartier Santos Décant Rewind surprised everyone with its counterclockwise dial and hands due to an inverted movement.

Raymond Weil's Millesime SE Moon Phase offered impressive value and design for a price just over $2,000 USD.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera continued the legacy with a panda dial and heritage-inspired design elements.

Tudor excelled with their new Black Bay 58 GMT in burgundy, black, and gold, offering great value and style.

Protector's double denim strap was seen as a major disappointment, feeling like an April Fool's joke.

Chopard's new skeleton setup for the St Meritz lost the warmth of craftsmanship and felt overly mechanized.

Rolex's solid yellow gold Deepsea, weighing about 320 grams, was seen as excessive and unpractical.

The strongest brand overall was a close call, with contenders like Grand Seiko, JLC, and Cartier in the running.

Cartier was awarded the strongest brand with a fun and diverse lineup, including the colorful Santos Décant Rewind.

The 'Best in Show' award went to the Rolex 1908 with its platinum case and ice blue dial, symbolizing potential for the brand's future.

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